Poor woman's 'bouillabaisse' (vegetarian)
Wednesday, August 8, 2012 I'm not sure peas are in season anywhere in the world right now; here in the northern hemisphere, where it's mid-summer, I also don't know if anyone is craving soup -- unless it's chilled and the main ingredient is cucumber. Today in my home city, though, it's cool and mostly cloudy after yesterday evening's thunder, lightening and heavy downpour. Perhaps, then, it's not completely out of sync to publish this post now. If the recipe strikes your fancy, you'll be well prepared when fresh peas are in season again. And here on the West Coast of B.C., if you sowed a second crop in July to mid-August, that will be autumn.
A couple of weeks ago, while seeking the perfect recipe for the abundant peas, I stumbled upon one of Martha Rose Shulman's Recipes for Health: 'Bouillabaisse' of Fresh Peas with Poached Egg.
When Sophie and Kathryn tweeted their approval of this recipe...
...I decided to make it soon -- the coming weekend, in fact, to coincide with the final pea harvest of the season. But because I'd be spending all Sunday afternoon at a community garden work party, I modified the method for the busy gardener. Based on what I actually did for reasons of practicality and time management -- not because I think I can do better than Martha Rose Shulman -- here are my suggestions:
1) The evening before: Shell the fresh peas and store them in the fridge. (I didn't have enough 'Green Arrow' shelling peas so, inspired by Sophie's post, I improvised and shelled some of the larger 'Brazilian Snow Peas'.)
2) The next morning: Make vegetable stock. (Now, even though the recipe states you can use water, I wanted to use stock but didn't have any on-hand. I was also out of onions. So I got up a little earlier than usual to shop, chop and simmer. I followed this basic recipe and used a slow-cooker; next time, I will make Lucy's version.)
While the stock is simmering, par-cook the potatoes and set them aside. (I'm still perfecting my par-cooking method but I like to slice the potatoes, place them in steamer basket, and then steam them over gently boiling water until they're about three-quarters done.)
When the stock colour and flavour are "just right", turn off the heat and strain the stock. Return the strained stock back to the slow-cooker, add the par-cooked potatoes and turn the heat to low before going about your other chores. (For me, this meant sorting, chopping and sifting compost at the community garden. In a way, just like making stock!)
3) Early evening, dinner-time, about 15 minutes before serving, finish and assemble:
Add peas to slow cooker; turn heat up to high. Poach one or two eggs to the partly-set yolk stage. (I "cheated" and used an egg poaching pan.) Slice the crusty end off a rustic multi-grain baguette and place the bread slice at the bottom of the soup bowl. Place the poached egg on top of the bread. Stir the herbs (I used fresh parsley and tarragaon) into the soup and then ladle the soup into the bowl and serve immediately.
Now before your look at the following image, if you haven't already viewed the New York Times recipe page, please do so. The accompanying photo looks much more appetizing than mine, which I took on a very empty, very hungry, very impatient stomach that wouldn't wait for any fancy, schmancy food styling:
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Highly recommended. This bouillabaisse will be on regular rotation during the next pea season.
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